HARD SHELLAC
Ever wished you had a finish that was as easy to use as shellac but with the durability of polyurethane? Well wish no more, because here it is.
This unique Hardened Shellac creates a film with a high resistance to heat, water and alcohol, yet it is used in exactly the same way as any normal shellac. It can be applied with a rubber as French polish, brushed, sprayed and dipped.
HOW IS THE HARDNESS ACHIEVED
After shellac has been dissolved in ethanol* it is possible to introduce additives that cause the shellac to cross link after it has dried. This cross linking takes about 20 days to completely cure, less in hot weather.
USES:
Ideal for table tops and other horizontal surfaces such as dresser and desk tops, etc. Also brilliant for use on guitars, lutes, harps and many other musical instruments where a traditional finish is required and good resonance qualities are essential.
APPLICATION:
Hard Shellac is applied in the same manner as any normal shellac. The drying time is the same as regular shellac. ie: almost instantly.
Water dye may be used under the shellac to change the colour of the timber to be polished. There is no need to use a sanding sealer or anything else under the Hard Shellac, however you may apply a weak solution of the shellac as a first coat eg. 1 part Hard Shellac to 8 parts ethanol*. This can be fine sanded after it has dried. This will seal the timber and dye (if used) and will give a beautiful smooth base upon which to build your finish.
SHELF LIFE:
Hard shellac has a shelf life of 18 months from the time it is made and all bottles are clearly labelled with the Best by date. However… we have been told on numerous occasions that this product still works as well as new when it’s up to 5 years old. Once it is out of date it is no longer much good and should be disposed of.
Hard Shellac is a reasonably strong brew and may need to be thinned up to 50/50 with ethanol* depending on your application method.
ALL application gear must be washed IMMEDIATELY after use.
If rubber, brush or spray equipment is left to dry it will go rock hard and become unusable.
Wash up and thin with Ethanol* available at most good hardware and paint shops.
* ETHANOL also commonly known in Australia as – 100% Industrial Methylated Spirits or 100% IMS. and sometimes called pure alcohol or denatured alcohol. If you can’t get 100% IMS then it is strongly suggested that you use 95% rather than cheap methylated spirits without a specified percentage, as this by law can contain up to 40%+ water and will ruin the shellac and your finish.